





The rugged Na Pali cliffs on the north-western side of Kauai made it impossible to
build a road around the entire island. Here is a boat tour's view of the almost vertical
cliffs that rise up to 4,000 feet above the valley floor. The hiking trails above these
imposing cliffs lead to the tough Na Pali wilderness. The hikes are tough and dangerous and a
permit is required. The first two valleys, Kalalau and Hanakapiai, can be reached by hiking but it is
advisable to gear up and purchase a trail guidebook first. In these valleys and some of the others,
there is evidence of habitation, in the form to fruit groves and terraces for the cultivation of taro.
The best way to view the Na Pali may be by helicopter, but the best way to experience it is by
boat. Whether you boat in by inflatable, kayak, or yacht, the sights are impossible to describe. For
the true nature lover, there are a number of hidden coves and beaches reachable only by boat.


The Fern Grotto, part of the Wailua Marina State Park, is one of the more populated attractions on
Kauai's east side; however, its history, lush setting and the entertaining cruise that ferries visitors
there make the visit worthwhile--especially for first-time guests. A few miles south of the Kauai
Coconut Beach Resort, tour boats leaving the Wailua Marina provide the only access to the grotto.
Only Navigable River
Our boat wound its way along the Wailua River, Hawaii's only navigable river, whose headwaters
begin atop Mt. Waialeale, one of the rainiest spots in the world.On the way to the grotto, we saw
the partial remains of heiaus--rock platforms that served as temples in earlier times--which gave us
some sense of the spiritual significance of the area. In addition, a guide told us that many of Kauai's
first chiefs were born on the banks of the river.
In addition to the legends recounted during the hour-and -a-half trip, the crew provides visitors with
a tongue-in-cheek program to and from the grotto. An on-board hula lesson, during which we were
asked to imagine that we were "scraping the inside of a barrel with our hips," was one of the more
entertaining aspects of the ride. The crew was liberal with light-hearted, all-in-fun critiques, and
passengers were rewarded for their efforts with a genuine hula presentation by a group of
professional dancers.
At the jungle-like grotto, the caverns form a natural amphitheater, where we viewed a performance
of The Hawaiian Wedding Song. On the way back, the crew offered a mock version--The
Hawaiian War Chant," dedicated to couples married 25 years or more." The crew is fun and does a
good job of making visitors feel welcome. For example, after a show of hands revealed that most
passengers had tasted poi, one crew member quipped, "We don't eat poi, we just serve it at luaus.
It won't kill you, but you'll wish you were dead."
Smith's Motor Boat Service operates excursions to the grotto daily, and no reservations are
necessary.
A casual cruise up the Wailua River to the verdant Fern Grotto aboard a motorized riverboat
is one of Kauai's most popular and affordable attractions. River cruises depart about every
half hour throughout the day from the south side of the Wailua River. Because the river is Hawaii's
longest, and most navigable, the ride is an unique experience both for visitors and residents of the
islands.
The river rides began sometime ago when the Wai'ale'ale family of Wailua began taking interested
passengers up river in a simple small boat. Wai'ale'ale Motorboat Service is now well known
throughout Hawaii and operates a small fleet of long flat bottom riverboats. Their
extended ohana of family and employees still share with passengers the legends of Wailua, which is
considered one of the most sacred areas of Kauai, and entertain guests with song and hula.
Wai'ale'ale Boats cruises upriver from a dock at the Wailua River Marina, on the south shore of the
river.
Every seat aboard the riverboats offers a great view during the 40 minute trip to the Fern Grotto.
Tropical grasslands line the river and cloud-capped Mount Wai'ale'ale looms in the background,
adding an element of mystique to the trip. Friendly boat drivers narrate the ride, pointing out points
famous in Hawaiian mythology and other items of interest. You many recognize the scenery from
location shots in films like Elvis' "Blue Hawaii" and George C. Scott's "Islands in the Stream."
Upon arrival at the Fern Grotto you disembark and take a short walk to a platform within the
fern-draped cave mouth. There Hawaiian musicians serenade you with "The Hawaiian Wedding
Song" and other traditional local songs. The acoustics within the grotto are remarkable and greatly
enhance the singing and guitar playing.


